Introduction: Wine Cork Surfboard
The production of surfboards have severe environmental effects. The foam is made from oil, which is mined and then refined and burned into the foam blank that is used to make the board. This blank is then shaved down to fit the shape of a surfboard, producing harmful dust. To seal preserve the life of the surfboard, it is doused in several toxic chemicals. These chemicals are toxic to both the environment, and the person constructing the surfboard. The carbon footprint of an average surfboard is around four hundred and fifty kilograms of carbon dioxide which is as much as the average car would produce running 15.5 hours non-stop or the energy a house uses in 11 days. This needs to change.
Step 1: Corks!
The corks were sorted to get rid of all the artificial corks, as the planer would melt them. The corks were glued into pairs using Evo-Stick, and then 3 pairs were taken and laid out together around a plastic wine cork. The pairs were “folded” up into a hexagon around the plastic cork, and an elastic band was wrapped tightly around it to hold it in place while the glue dried. Once dried, the plastic cork is removed and the process is repeated 400 times.
Step 2: Gluing Up the Blank
The stringer template above was drawn out full size on Techsoft2D and sent to the vinyl cutter to be drawn out on to wallpaper. The template was then cut out by hand and drawn onto the 2 boards. It was cut out on the band saw. The hexagons were then glued onto the stringer, with the edges touching and bonded together. Near the centre of the board, there are two hexagons on top of each other to provide the volume needed for shaping. Once the first layer had set, more layers were added until the board reached the desired width. The hexagons tessellated together to form a stronger, lighter and more robust shape. Each side of the board was built up separately, so that they could both be worked on at the same time to increase efficiency.
Step 3: Finishing the Blank
The two halves were taken and laid next to each other and a single strip of hexagons were glued onto one stringer. They were held in place using F-clamps. Once dried, the half with the cork strip and the other half are glued together and clamped using spring clamps. Each half was supported due to a varying height of corks. The vinyl cut template was pinned onto the board lining it up with the tail of the board and the stringer. Extra tape was added to ensure that the template did not move around.The outline was then cut out on the band saw, tracing around the template. The template was then flipped around, and the other half was then cut out.
Step 4: Rails and Shaping
An 80mm block of plywood was laminated up from individual sheets and was glued to the front and another to the back of the board. Using the template they were trimmed to the outside shape. The flexible plywood rails were bonded onto the cork edges using EvoStick. It was clamped together using G clamps. Once dried, the second layer of flexible wood is laminated on using wood glue. The overflowing flexible wood was removed using a coping saw and finished with a block plane. Small nails were used to attach the rails to the plywood blocks as well as the glue to ensure a strong bond. Using an electric planer, the corks were shaped smooth and the rails were curved outwards. The plane was originally set at a depth of 1.4mm but that was gradually reduced to 0.4mm. The shaping was done in a well ventilated area with a mask, goggles and ear protection worn.
Step 5: Glassing
The board was placed on a stand with enough space on either side for the glassfibre to be wrapped underneath. Any dust was removed from the board with a vacuum cleaner. The whole work area was covered in ground sheets to avoid spillage. A heater was required to get the room at 20*C for the duration of the glassing. The glassfibre cloth was laid over the underside of the board and trimmed smoothly with approximately 3 inches left excess all the way around. A cut was made on either side of the tail and at the nose of the glassfibre so that it can be overlapped instead of creasing.The resin and catalyst were mixed in the ratio 99% resin to 1% hardener. 50ml were mixed at a time to avoid it curing too quickly. Using a paintbrush, the resin was gently applied to the bottom of the surfboard to avoid it sinking into the holes. The fibreglass cloth was kept tight through the use of weights on the surfboard. The resin was applied from the centre out to avoid air bubbles. The excess fibreglass around the rails was pushed down the surfboard to completely cover the rails and the edges of the deck. Once the fibreglass was fully saturated in resin it was left to cure fully. Curing took approximately half an hour while gelling took 6 minutes. Once cured, using a Stanley knife the excess fibreglass was trimmed along the making tape line. This process was then repeated for the deck of the surfboard, with the excess not being trimmed off, but overlapped instead with the bottom glass.
Step 6: Leash Plug and Fin Box
Once fully cured the shape of the fin box was marked out using masking tape and metal rules. on the underneath of the board. Using a Stanley knife the fibreglass skin was removed and the remaining corks were removed using a chisel to create a channel in the board. Once fully cured the shape of the fin box was marked out using masking tape and metal rules. on the underneath of the board. Using a Stanley knife the fibreglass skin was removed and the remaining corks were removed using a chisel to create a channel in the board. On the deck a 30mm hole was drilled using a Forstnerbit and a piece of fibreglass was laminated and placed in the hole. The leash plug was inserted and left to cure fully. The excess plastic for the leash and fin box were sanded away using an orbital sander.
Step 7: Go Surfing!
The board weighs approx. 15kg, so quite heavy when carrying down the beach, however this isn't noticeable once in the water.